He paddled out midday, joining a small cluster of big-wave riders poised for breakers that rolled in sporadically.
Forecasts promised an enormous set of waves hitting Mavericks on Dec. 9, prompting a vote from the 24 contest invitees on whether to hold the Mavericks Surf Contest. Though they gave a thumbs-down to the contest for that day, eight or nine of the competitors showed up to get reacquainted with the break. Washburn was among them.
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Washburn, of San Francisco, is in his 17th year surfing Mavericks. Mavericks Surf Ventures, the company organizing the contest, calls Washburn “the closest thing Mavericks has to an official ambassador.” At 41 years old, he is among the first generation to have tackled the massive wave break when it was still a relative secret to the world. He has earned himself a spot on the lineup for the Mavericks Surf Contest every year it’s been held.
In between shivers, drying off and loading up his minivan, Washburn talked to Review reporter Greg Thomas about some of the hot topics on the minds of big-wave surfers and Mavericks fans this season.
How were the waves today? Was the swell as epic as the forecasts predicted?
The waves today were as big as expected but not as frequent as we thought they’d be. We were surprised — there weren’t many waves. There were two or three every half hour or so, which is not really enough for a good day. For a contest, you want 30 to 40 per hour. There needs to be enough for all the guys to catch a couple. … This happens a lot — where the models are taking a really random guess. Everyone acts like it’s reality when it’s not. … It was definitely the right call not to run (the contest).
A few Mavericks contestants flew in for today’s swell even though there was no contest. What’s your philosophy on big-wave-chasing?
It’s great, if you have the resources. Some of the younger guys get paid to do it and have the ability. … Greg Long has probably ridden more waves in his young life than other guys have ever got. Every time there’s a big swell anywhere in the world, he’s there.
Is it a question of sponsorship?
Most guys barely break even. They’re using their own money. … It’s not been a viable thing for most of them. It’s great if you’re a kid who can live out of a duffel bag. Me, I got kids to think about.
You’re out here in the middle of a weekday. Do you have some kind of arrangement with your employer that allows you to miss work for waves?
Most all the guys are careful about finding some kind of flexibility on that. … But in big-wave surfing there (are) not a lot of days-per-year you’re out there. It’s pretty much guaranteed to be dead from April to September. And a lot of the times there are only a few really good days for big waves.
Was it a good day at the Eddie Aikau contest (in Hawaii on Dec. 8)?
I’ve never seen it like it was yesterday. It sounds like that was the best they’ve ever had it. It’s really finicky. It’s special when they get a day like that.
Talk about what sets Mavericks apart from other big-wave surf spots.
For sure the temperature keeps people away. It’s not as user-friendly as some other spots. That’s kind of a fringe benefit. But today it got so cold I wasn’t having fun by the end of it. … It’s fun to watch the younger guys surfing it.
Do you participate in other surfing contests?
Mavs is the only one I do. I don’t get invited to any others! I would go if I did. Unless I get lucky and won Mavericks, I won’t have to worry about that.
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